Fish Moilee {Keralan Fish Stew}

Kerala, the tiny Indian state on the west coast, literally means the land of coconut trees. It is no secret that the diet is heavily dependent on coconuts – coconut flesh, coconut milk, coconut oil, tender coconut water, anything and everything is used. And since it is a coastal state, the protein of choice is fish.

South Indian fish curries can be a spicy, red-hot affair, but Kerala cuisine can sometimes surprise you with a certain subtlety. While this particular fish curry (or stew, rather) is deceptively simple to make and get right in the first try itself, it does not lack in flavor at all. No, siree!

The silky smoothness of the coconut milk is what hits the tongue first. Then you take a bite of the juicy, fried fish or a plump, ripe tomato. Long after you’ve finished eating, your taste buds would still remember the flavor imparted by curry leaves and the slight warmth from freshly cracked black pepper. That is another specialty of Kerala, one which lured those early Arab, Chinese and European traders to its shores. Black pepper, which was once called black gold, put this tiny region on the world map. You must have heard of Tellichery black pepper, guess where it comes from?

Unlike most Indian curries that begin and end with a healthy dose of red chilies (either fresh or dried or in powder form), the fish moilee is deceptively subtle and mild-hued, almost pastel, for an Indian curry.

But let that not fool you. It lacks nothing in flavor. I believe it is the perfect gateway to the region’s cuisine. Anyone will love it. Maybe you are apprehensive of Indian cuisine or the extensive use of coconut, but this dish will put your mind at ease. It will lure you slowly but surely with its aromatic spices and depth of flavor.

It is best eaten with something equally mild, like these rice flour flatbreads called pathiri. You can also have it with these idiyappams or string hoppers, homemade naan, soft chapatis or even pita bread. Or you can try my favorite childhood combo – fish moilee and lightly toasted sandwich bread.

Use any firm flesh fish you like. I used salmon in this recipe, though fish moilee is best made with thick slices of the pomfret. The fish is fried lightly with a light coating of turmeric and a bit of red chili (or black pepper, but I add red chili for the color). Then you start the fish moilee by tempering a host of aromatic whole spices (Indian cinnamon or cassia, cloves, green cardamom) and curry leaves. This is followed by onions, ginger, garlic and a dash of turmeric powder. Then the fish and tomatoes go in and get simmered in coconut milk. To finish, add a generous pinch of freshly cracked black pepper.

It really helps if you can round-up all the necessary spices, curry leaves and coconut milk needed for this recipe. Since it is a very simple recipe, there really are no substitutions possible. Traditionally, coconut oil is used, but you may use any neutral oil.

FISH MOILEE {KERALAN FISH STEW}

You will need:

• Fish – 1 lb, cut into large pieces
• Turmeric powder – 1 tsp, divided
• Red chili powder – 1/2 tsp (optional)
• Oil – 3-4 tbsp
• Whole spices – 1″ cinnamon stick, 3 cloves, 2-3 pods of green cardamom
• Curry leaves – a sprig (6-8 leaves)
• Onion – 1, chopped or sliced thinly
• Ginger – 1 tbsp, grated or thinly sliced
• Garlic – 2 cloves, minced
• Green chili – 1-2, whole
• Tomato – 2 large, sliced
• Salt – to taste
• Thin coconut milk – 2 cups (see Notes)
• Thick coconut milk – 2-3 tbsp (see Notes)
• Crushed black pepper – 1-2 tsp
• Cilantro leaves – a few, to garnish

How to:

• Wash and pat dry the fish pieces. Make a paste with 1/2 tsp turmeric powder, red chili powder and 1/2 tsp salt. Rub all over the fish and rest for 5-10 minutes.
• Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp oil in a pan or deep skillet. Gently place the fish in the hot oil and shallow fry till golden on all sides. Remove to a plate and set aside.
• If there is no oil left in the pan, add 1-2 tbsp oil and continue. Add the whole spices and curry leaves and allow them to sputter and become fragrant.
• Then add the onions, ginger, garlic and green chilies and saute till onions are translucent, but not browned. Add 1/2 tsp turmeric powder and stir to combine. Then add the slices of one large tomato and cook till it becomes soft.
• Now add the thin coconut milk and bring to a gentle boil. Return the fried fish pieces to the pan, season with salt and simmer for 10-15 minutes or till gravy becomes thick.
• Then add the second sliced tomato and the thick coconut milk and simmer till tomato is just cooked and coconut milk is heated through. Take care not to bring the fish moilee to a boil after you add the thick coconut milk.
• Check seasoning, sprinkle crushed black pepper and cilantro leaves on top and remove from heat. Keep fish moilee covered for at least half an hour before serving. This allows the flavors to meld beautifully and also thickens the gravy slightly.
• Serve with southern favorites like pathiris, appams, idiyappams and dosas or naan, chapatis and lightly toasted bread slices.

Notes:

• While frying the fish, take care not to crisp them up like you would normally do for fried fish. Some folks just lightly sear the fish, but I like to fry it a bit further. It works any which way.
• Thick coconut milk is the thick (or first) milk you extract by blending freshly grated coconut with just a touch of water. The strained fiber/pulp is returned to the blender with more water and thinner coconut milk is extracted. If you are using canned coconut milk, do not shake the can before opening. Collect a few tablespoons of the thick, creamy milk you see at the top. Mix the rest of the milk with water to make as much thin coconut milk as required.

Be sure to try this classic Keralan fish stew the next time you need something interesting and mildly spicy. It is sure to please your taste-buds.

Do try it and let me know how you like it!

You may also want to check out this Mixed Vegetable Stew in Coconut Milk, another Keralan classic.

If spice is what gets your tastebuds tingling, try this Spicy Shrimp Roast With Roasted Cumin.

Go here for more Seafood recipes.

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